Foot Prints

Hiking the Inca Trail – Day One: KM 82 to Ayapata

The Classic Inca Trail that leads from kilometer 82 to Machu Picchu is a dream for many people that desire to walk in the footsteps of the Incas. Over 500 years ago, the Incas built an extensive highway system throughout South America with thousands of miles of paved trails. These trails were elaborately built with countless steps made of a particular granite that has proven to stand the test of time.

Today only 500 permits are issued each day for those wanting to take this journey. Of those 500 permits, only 200 are actual trekkers while the other 300 are the support staff of guides, chefs, and porters. One of the first things that struck me along the trail is while the trail is heavily used, the stones have maintained their roughness and grit to allow for assured footing.

There are countless stories of those that have traversed the Inca Trail, along with endless photos and descriptions. Β After reviewing the numerous photos that I took along the trail, I’ve been thinking hard of how I can share with you my experience on the trail without seeming redundant.

Since my first visit to Peru in May 2009 and my one-day hike from KM 104 to Machu Picchu, I have been in training for this four-day / three-night high altitude hike. With weekly hiking over the years with the Mountain Club of Maryland, and surviving a knee injury back in January of this year I am pleased to report that physically my legs were ready for the trek!

But there was one thing that I wasn’t able to train for, regardless of my many efforts. With my hiking experience with the Mountain Club of Maryland, I’ve watched my trail buddies fly up the hills and minor mountains with ease, while I hang in the back struggling to catch my breath. I finally deduced that what I was experiencing wasn’t normal and went to a doctor who officially diagnosed me with Exercise Induced Asthma or EIB. Something not fun for someone who loves to be active.

But there was no way I was going to let it deter me from accomplishing the dream of a life time – to hike the Inca Trail with my friends. My strategies included acclimatizing in Cuzco prior to the trek, medication prescribed for EIB, and specific hiking secrets. In particular the Rest Step, Pressure Breathing, and going just plain SLOW!

Day One of the Inca Trail varies as to where the trekking company is able to obtain campsite permits. We had reserved a “Private Service” group with SAS Travel so that we had more flexibility within our group. One brilliant thing we did was to head to Ollantaytambo the day prior and spent the night there. This way, we had a 7:00 a.m. wake up call to transfer an hour to the trail head, instead of 4:30 a.m from Cuzco and a near 3-hour drive.

We had chosen to travel in the first week of May. Rainy season had just ended and all was green and in bloom, the skies were blue and bright. It had been mentioned several times to us how we had picked the best time of year to do this hike as just three weeks later all would be brown. We also missed being miserable while trying to trek during the rainy season.Β Even though I had taken my Delorme PN-60 to track the hike, for some crazy reason my GPS was unable to lock onto a satellite signal, so it was completely useless to me.

Starting at Kilometer 82 / Piskacucho we began our 2,428 feet ascent to the Ayapata Campground.

Crossing the Urubamba River from the Inca Trail Checkpoint at Kilometer 82 with Glacier Mountains overlooking our journey.

Along this stretch, the open trail starts along the Urubamba River to the first ruin site of Llactapata.

The trail then begins upwards through a jungle area along the Cusichaca River. Along the way, several rest stops with vendors selling beverages and other items help make a pleasant day even more enjoyable. The porters were particularly happy as Chicha was available for their enjoyment along the way.

Life goes on along this section of the trail with many Quechua families living and making a living off the trail. Towards the end of the day, I passed a man with two horses tacked up ready to ride. He saw me slowing going up the trail and said “TAXI?” As tempting as it was, I declined the four-legged ride as I wanted to accomplish the Inca trail on my own two feet. Now looking back, I really should have taken him up on his offer.

At one of our rest stops, this puppy had the right idea – snoozing in the sun. How I envied that puppy !

While my friends flew up the mountain side, I struggled in the back trying to catch my breath. Taking a step at a time, I determinedly kept up a snail’s pace up hill. My goal – to keep moving, regardless of how slow, but not to let the heart rate get to the point that I would feel as if my heart would pump out of my chest. One thing wonderful about going slow, is that you can really take the time to enjoy the scenery.

We couldn’t have asked for a more picture perfect day. The glacier mountains were glistening in the bright sun with their white peaks and majesty.

Start at Piskacucho / Km 82: 8,429 feet

Lunch along the Cusichaca River

End at Ayapata Campground: 10,857 feet

Total distance: 14 kilometers / 8.6 miles

Total hiking time: Depart 8:45 a.m. / Arrive Ayapata 4:00 p.m.

21 replies »

  1. It must have been such a great journey, but hard for you. I agree with you, you should have accepted the horse, you are even a horse woman.. Nice photos!

    • Well…the facilities were rustic to put it nicely. Everyone sleeps in tents and no one is allowed to build a camp fire. Restroom facilities are overused with porcelain holes in the ground. Not a shower or warm water in site. To tell you the truth, I’d rather go behind a tree than in the toilet facilities they had.

  2. This is incredible – this has been on my list for a long time but last year Nepal won over the Inca Trail. So this will have to wait a while longer! Love the images, they really tell the story and congratulations to you on reaching the top!

      • Nope – I’m debating putting an entry together. If you want to check out my Flickr photos you can see them here. It was before I really had a blog, not sure if I’ll go back in time to document my adventures or not.

        119/365 - Annapurna
    • What ya waiting for? On the trail, I was the only one showing Asthmatic symptoms. I did run across one girl at Machu Picchu though hiking Huaynu Picchu. Key was for me SLOW !! You can do it!

  3. Wwaaoo I really like the sunglasses…’big smile’

    Great great photos – I like mountains and I like cactus… πŸ˜‰

    and I will try the bridge at Urubamba River… πŸ˜‰

    • Thank you Drake ! I bought the when I had laser eye surgery in January. Blindly went into the Oakley outlet store and asked them to hook me up. After the price tag, I realized that they really did !

      Ha Ha..so just the bridge then Drake?

  4. #.bella remy – 28052012.
    It pulls in the ‘old’ black drake to take the trip to Peru and ‘throw’ out in the mountains – when I read your great report and lovely photos …

    I have walked a part in the European Alps and Pyrenees – wonderful trips – slightly different but still – so it looks really … πŸ˜‰

  5. “slightly different but still – so it looks really” – “slightly different but still wonderful – so it looks really tempting …… πŸ˜‰

    • Walking the Alps & Pyrenees. Now I’m jealous ! I’m sure the scenery was different, and of course the trails unique. Thanks for the twitter post – perhaps these posts will entice you to travel to Peru.

  6. #.bella remy – 29052012
    Pyrenees are a lot more barren, harsh and “brutal” compared to the Alps – where there is much more vegetation – but not as much as your photos show from Peru – a trip to Peru could be nice… πŸ˜‰

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