After a chilly night at the Ayapata Campground, the porters were kind enough to bring us a cup of Coca tea at the predawn hour of 5:00 a.m. Today was the day for the longest and highest climb of the entire trek. After my brief panic attack at dinner the night before, I had managed to convince myself that I was going to be able to successfully climb up to Dead Woman’s Pass and would cross over to see another day.
Since it was clear that my hiking friends had absolutely no trouble with the altitude and breathing, I worried that my snail’s pace would never get me over the mountain. We had camped at nearly 11,000 feet at the Ayapata campground. After a well-designed high altitude breakfast of Quinoa porridge, pancakes and Coca Tea, I began my slow creep up the countless Inca steps. The trail lead through a beautiful cloud forest that looked as if hobbits lived there.
The previous day I was able to carry my Canon 7D with 24-105mm lens on a Black Rapid Strap. It was time now to lighten my load, so I tucked my Canon G12 into my pocket and off I went. Quickly my friends flew up the cursed Inca Steps, while I began what I called the “Blue Llama Dance.”
As a hiking team, we spent days trying to get a name for our hiking group and we finally came up with the “Blue Llama’s.” Our guide Isaac asked us if we know how Llamas laughed. Of course since we didn’t, he demonstrated how and it sounded like a high pitch laugh. That quickly became our signature sound and whenever we could get close to other hiking groups at rest areas Isaac would loudly announce “Blue Llama Team – Champion’s coming though !!”
The other groups would just stare at us and wondered who they heck we were, but by the end of the four-day trek all of the porters and guides along the trail knew of us and our silly laugh. So I must give great thanks now to both Isaac and a porter nicknamed Yamasate. They ended up babysitting me while I slowly took one step at a time up the mountain. My infamous “Blue Llama Dance” was similar to the Waltz. I’d take one step and count to three, then take another step..one, two, three. However when I was approaching the summit of Dead Woman’s Pass, the count of three was long past and I was now taking one step and counting between five and ten breaths before I took the next step.
Along the trail, Llamas walked right past as if we weren’t there. It gave me a great chance to catch my breath.
Our guide Isaac was devoted and very carefully watched my every step. It most likely bored him to tears. He’d frequently motivate me by shouting out “Fuerza, Fuerza!” (power, power) “Con Calma, Con Paciencia !” (With calm and patience.) Yeah..I got it…I’m still going slow though. Of course, there is nothing more humiliating than watching the porters fly by you with their 50+pound packs. Not only was I way behind with my head start, these porters had to break down camp and pack everything up before heading up the mountain.
There were several rest stops along the way and since our guide Isaac had walked the Inca Trail well over 300 times, he knew everyone along the trail. I told him that he could hang back and visit with his friends and catch up with me later. He’d do that and in about a half hour he’d catch up to me and check on me. Isaac would then go ahead and take a brief nap. At one point I came around the corner and he had been clearly resting. So worried was he, Isaac had pulled out his medical kit from his bag just in case he needed to doctor me. NOPE, I’M FINE…I’m just going slow !
The trail leading up to Dead Woman’s Pass – Notice the tiny white dots those are trekkers.
The Trail from where I came from – it goes way down.
Am I there yet ?
Luckily I had the tenacity and determination to overcome this mountain. While many trekkers huffed and puffed by me and asking – are you okay? I kept my pace steady and heart rate low. I hadn’t realized by now that Isaac had been so worried about me that he had Yamasate close behind. My mantra quickly became “I’M FINE !” But I was starting to get bored with my slow pace and hoped that I’d reach the summit soon.
My friends were kind enough to wait a long time for my arrival as I was at least 45 minutes behind them. We were able to celebrate the successful 2,961 feet ascent to 13,818 feet of altitude at Dead Woman’s Pass together.
Nearly ‘dead’ at Dead Woman’s Pass
Leaping full of joy at Dead Woman’s Pass
But vengeance is mine ! Because I had been going at such a slow pace, my energy reserves were plenty. It was finally time to start heading downhill ! Woo Hoo ! After two long and suffering days of a total of over 5,000 feet of altitude gain I was able to challenge the infamous “Gringo Killer” steps and head down. I was highly motivated as I couldn’t wait to get lower so that I could breathe.
Little did I know that the real plan was for us to tackle two summits that day. After a rapid descent of nearly 2,000 feet at a steep grade for a mile and a half, we arrived to the Paqamayo Campground for lunch. By the time I reached camp my legs were trembling with all of the effort of the day. I looked up at the next summit that had been on our planned route and just knew that I had met my match.
Yeah ! Our Lunch Tent !
Notice the trail on the left mountain? I had met my match.
I had to kindly request that we go no further. Not only was I exhausted by my fellow trail buddies were feeling a bit of the strain from the day as well. It didn’t take much pleading with Isaac, but he was able to scramble to find us a camp site for our tents after long deliberation with the officials. We were able to rest for the remainder of the day to start fresh for day three on the Inca Trail.
Start: Ayapata: 10,857 feet altitude
Rest Stop: Llulluchapampa Campground at 12,502 feet
Summit Peak: Dead Woman’s Pass – Warmiwanasqa at 13,818 feet altitude
Finish: Paqamayo Campground: 11,833 feet
Total Distance: 7 miles
Total Hiking Time: Depart 6:00 a.m. / Arrive Campground 1:30 p.m.
Categories: Foot Prints, Peru and the Inca Trail
Emily Carter ~ Nature as Art 
Congratulations on conquering Dead Woman’s Pass! That is a very impressive accomplishment! So, do you have a new trail name?
Funny should you ask ! I’m known for my whining, so my new trail name is Huaynu Whiner. Thanks for your kind words, I agree – it really was a lifetime achievement.
Too bad could not have hopped on the llama for a bit – ha! Great post and photos – thanks for sharing. The hiking is worth the work at the end of the day.
If only the Llama could have carried my weight. You are right though, the experience was well worth the effort.
It must be so interesting to meet llamas in the real thing. And the rest too of course!
You would have loved it Bente! They run all of their livestock free hand and just walk behind them with a stick. You’ll see more soon.
why do people insist on naming trails things like ‘dead woman’s pass’…am i supposed to want to hike it now ? haha
Hi Gabriel, well they claim if you look at the mountain peak a certain way you can see her head and face and one breast. Even my oxygen deprived brain couldn’t see it! You’re a guy though..no worries for you!
i think ill avoid most trails that have any mention of death in them!
Way too funny! That should have been my clue!
WOW! I never realized how physical demanding this trip was. So happy I can re-live this with you from the comfort of my computer! The scenery is spectacular!
Hi Sylvia ! Indeed I had a good clue because of my hike back in 2009. But that was baby steps in comparison to this hike. Scenery was absolutely amazing.
Wow! How great! :)!!
Thank you!
you are soooo brave. I could never do that- but great to see the photos from someone else’s effort. Well done- and thanks
It’s amazing what one can achieve if you put your mind to it. My guess is that you could if you really wanted to. Thank you for your kind words.
Amazing shots… 😉
You are guaranteed soon tired of listening to me… ‘hahahaha’
Clearly shown by your dress – that there’s a big difference
between sun and shade… 😉
Never Drake ! You are so very sweet ! Yes, temperatures varied according to time of day, altitude, weather and level of effort. Day three I think I wore at least 4 different combinations of clothing. Although they were getting quite trail worn.
Gringo killer – crap – you are freaking me out.
I love the look on your face when you get to the top.
I’m going to send you another one..it really depicts how I really felt ! I tell you, my personal trainer did me right by having me do step-overs. My quads were ready for the downhill stairs.
Once I had my son hiking in the Alps – he was about 11 at that time – he asked one day how the wild goats could keep his balance on the steep grass slopes – for fun, I said that wild goats’ legs on the left side was longer than those on the right side – but he didn’t buy that explanation – he knew his father well – your photos of the llamas remind me that story … “LOL”
But it is impressive to see the animals move both up and down easily and with grace – while we who not born there, we sweat a little more and breathe a little more quickly… 😉
But it’s nice when hiking in the mountains
– you meet only friendly and positive people… 😉
That is so very true Drake ! I was amazed how many strangers asked me if I was okay while I was slowly trudging along the trail. Really funny story with your son – can’t understand why he didn’t believe you!
I am very jealous of mountain people, they have amazing breathing capabilities.
The perspective of the trail photo (appearing before the lunch tent shot) with the mountains and sky above seems very misleading. It only seems like a handful of steps up, yet the hiker looks to be half a mile away. I found the same weird problem gauging distance while hiking in the Lake District. What’s it like for real? Gorgeous photos — congratulations on your travels!
Very nice write up. I am trying to blog my experience too though I haven’t really made it past the planning phase.:) It is very interesting that your day 2 was from Ayapata to Pacaymayu. Generally most of the ones I have seen where either from Waylabamba to Pacaymayu or from Ayapata to Caquicocha. We went with the latter and it made for one of the most tiring days I have ever experienced.
Did you think it was better this way?
Actually, we were supposed to go from Ayapata to Caquicocha. But in a word, I choked when we got to the Pacamayu campsite. There was no way I could climb another mountain that day. Getting to Ayapata on day one was perfect. It would have been nice to get to Caquicocha, but I think that is too ambitious. The idea should be to enjoy the trek, not to kill yourselves with hustling. Caquicocha to Wayna Waynu was an 11+ hour day, but most was downhill at lower altitudes, thus an easier long day.
Ahh, thanks for the response. I now see what you meant in your last paragraph. It was hard getting up the Abra de Runkurakay, especially for my wife who is scared of heights. The good thing was we got to spend a lot of time in Saqaymarka at sunset.
Wonderful ! I’m impressed you were able to do both passes on a single day. Congrats!